MANHATTAN, Kan. – It may be mid-summer, but veteran gardeners know it’s time to start planning the fall vegetable garden.

“Fall gardens may face additional pressures of pests and heat, but the flavor that comes from these late season crops are often better (than summer crops),” said Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan.

He notes that gardeners should count the number of days to harvest, as well as the crops’ tolerance to frost, before deciding when to plant fall crops. Crops may be seeded directly, or transplanted into the garden.

“Growing transplants is a good choice when the temperature is too warm for starting seeds in the ground, assuming you have grow lights and space available for starting them indoors,” McKernan said.

He provides some tips for successful fall crops:&nbsp;

McKernan also suggests a timeline for planting fall crops: Mid-July Plant potatoes if you can find seed stock or have saved seed potatoes. Do not use freshly dug potatoes as they have built-in dormancy that will prevent growth. Also, grocery store potatoes are often treated, so they don’t sprout.

Cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower transplants can be started from seed at this time. Choose a protected place where the soil can be kept moist and rabbits will not bother them. This will not be where they will grow the entire season; these crops will be transplanted in August.

Late July Seed beets, carrots and beans directly into the garden.

Late July to early August Seed spinach and long-season maturing lettuce into the garden. Leaf lettuce will be seeded later.

Second week of August Transplant cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower to their final location.

Mid to late August Direct seed radishes and leaf lettuce. There is no need to fertilize these crops before planting. Side-dress two weeks after transplanting, or four weeks after sowing seed, by applying two tablespoons of a 16-0-0 or one tablespoon of 27-3-3, 30-3-4 fertilizer (or something similar) per plant.

More information about fall gardening is&nbsp;<a href="https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/download/kansas-garden-guide_S51" target="_blank">available in the Kansas Garden Guide</a>, available online from the&nbsp;<a href="https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/" target="_blank">K-State Extension bookstore</a>.&nbsp;

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

K-State Extension is an equal opportunity employer and provider. Kansas State University, County Extension Councils, Extension Districts, and U.S. Department of Agriculture Cooperating.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1698681527025.jpeg" alt="written by: Alicia Boor - Cottonwood Extension District" />
 <figcaption>written by: Alicia Boor - Cottonwood Extension District</figcaption>
 </figure>K-State Extension news serviceMANHATTAN, Kan. – It may be mid-summer, but veteran gardeners know it’s time to start planning the fall vegetable garden.“Fall gardens may face additional pressures of pests and heat, but the flavor that comes from these late season crops are often better (than summer crops),” said Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan.He notes that gardeners should count the number of days to harvest, as well as the crops’ tolerance to frost, before deciding when to plant fall crops. Crops may be seeded directly, or transplanted into the garden.“Growing transplants is a good choice when the temperature is too warm for starting seeds in the ground, assuming you have grow lights and space available for starting them indoors,” McKernan said.He provides some tips for successful fall crops:&nbsp;<ul>
 <li>When seeding crops directly into the garden, plant slightly deeper than recommended in the spring to take advantage of the cooler soil temperatures and moisture available.</li><li>Water more frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out.</li><li>Overhead watering often causes soil to crust, making it more difficult for young, tender plants to emerge. Prevent this by applying a light sprinkling of vermiculite or compost over the row after seeding, or use a soak hose or drip irrigation right next to the row to allow water to slowly seep into the ground.</li>
 </ul>McKernan also suggests a timeline for planting fall crops: Mid-July Plant potatoes if you can find seed stock or have saved seed potatoes. Do not use freshly dug potatoes as they have built-in dormancy that will prevent growth. Also, grocery store potatoes are often treated, so they don’t sprout.Cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower transplants can be started from seed at this time. Choose a protected place where the soil can be kept moist and rabbits will not bother them. This will not be where they will grow the entire season; these crops will be transplanted in August.Late July Seed beets, carrots and beans directly into the garden.Late July to early August Seed spinach and long-season maturing lettuce into the garden. Leaf lettuce will be seeded later.Second week of August Transplant cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower to their final location.Mid to late August Direct seed radishes and leaf lettuce. There is no need to fertilize these crops before planting. Side-dress two weeks after transplanting, or four weeks after sowing seed, by applying two tablespoons of a 16-0-0 or one tablespoon of 27-3-3, 30-3-4 fertilizer (or something similar) per plant.More information about fall gardening is&nbsp;<a href="https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/download/kansas-garden-guide_S51" target="_blank">available in the Kansas Garden Guide</a>, available online from the&nbsp;<a href="https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/" target="_blank">K-State Extension bookstore</a>.&nbsp;Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.K-State Extension is an equal opportunity employer and provider. Kansas State University, County Extension Councils, Extension Districts, and U.S. Department of Agriculture Cooperating.

BOOR: Now is the time to begin thinking about fall vegetable garden

Introduction - in dryland (rainfed) production in Kansas, winter wheat serves as the base crop, as wheat stubble provides excellent soil cover that minimizes wind and water erosion and stores water for row crops. Therefore, residue management and weed control after wheat harvest are critical to conserving plant-available water for corn, grain sorghum, and soybeans planted the following year. Increased adoption of conservation tillage practices is mostly attributed to reduced costs and the historically high efficacy of herbicides for weed control. However, repeated applications of these herbicides have resulted in the development of herbicide resistance in several weed species. Limited new herbicide options and the high cost of herbicide programs that include multiple sites of action present a major challenge in no-till crop production.

How Do Cover Crops Suppress Weeds? Research in Kansas indicates that growing cover crops after wheat harvest can suppress weeds and serve as an essential component of integrated weed management in no-till systems. Cover crops suppress weeds through competition for light and other resources, as well as through the release of allelopathic compounds. However, the ability of cover crops to suppress weeds is directly related to the amount of biomass produced, which depends on the cover crop species, planting time, seeding rate, termination time and method, and environmental conditions. In dryland regions where biomass production can be limited, grass cover crop species tend to produce more biomass and provide more effective weed suppression than legumes. For example, studies in southwest Kansas showed that winter triticale alone or triticale-hairy vetch mixed cover crops reduced kochia biomass by 98% compared to chemical fallow. However, monoculture winter pea or hairy vetch cover crops produced less biomass and had less effect on kochia biomass suppression. Studies in Trego County, KS, showed that oat-triticale-pea or oat-triticale cover crop mixtures provided 97% weed biomass suppression, and the decrease in weed biomass increased the efficacy of herbicide application to control weeds at the termination of cover crops.

Selecting and Managing Cover Crops - because water availability may limit cover crop establishment in dryland regions, selecting productive, well-adapted species that can produce more biomass will be key to achieving the best weed suppression. Biomass production from single, three-species, and multi-species cover crop mixtures tends to be similar. If weed suppression is the goal, planting grass cover crops like triticale, millets, or sorghum-sudangrass, alone or in simple mixtures that produce a high amount of biomass, may be the best option. Furthermore, the cost of simple mixtures or single-species cover crops is lower than that of more complex mixtures.

The challenge is growing cover crops that use less plant-available water so they don’t impact subsequent crop yields, but produce enough biomass for effective weed control. Using cover crops for forage provides economic benefits to offset revenue loss associated with potential decreased crop yields when cover crops are grown after wheat harvest ahead of a row crop. When grazing is desired, studies in western Kansas have shown that cover crops can be grazed without losing weed-suppression benefits. In that study, grazing or haying cover crops significantly reduced weed biomass compared with chemical fallow (which had received two herbicide applications) or standing cover crops.

Termination Timing and Weed Management - growing cover crops for a longer period will increase biomass and may provide greater weed suppression benefits than an earlier termination date. However, late termination will increase water use by cover crops and may affect subsequent crop yields due to the increased biomass production. A later termination date for cover crops may result in cover crop species such as triticale, rye, and sudangrass going to seed and having volunteer plants in the next crop. Terminating cover crops at heading or soft dough will provide adequate weed suppression while also avoiding issues with volunteers from mature seed. The planting window for cover crops will depend on the targeted weeds and the individual producer's crop rotation. For example, spring- and summer-planted cover crops will provide better weed suppression of summer annual weeds such as Palmer amaranth. Still, fall-seeded cover crops are needed to suppress kochia.

Take-Home Message · Cover crops after wheat harvest can provide significant weed suppression and reduce herbicide application costs.

· Weed suppression by cover crops is directly related to the amount of biomass produced.

· Grass cover crop species like triticale, millets, or sorghum-sudangrass, alone or in simple mixtures, produce higher amounts of biomass than legumes or complex mixtures.

· Grazing cover crops does not impact their weed suppression benefits.

Information provided by K-State Research &amp; Extension Agronomy specialist.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/4/1681266655144.jpeg" alt="written by: Stacy Campbell - Cottonwood Extension District" />
 <figcaption>written by: Stacy Campbell - Cottonwood Extension District</figcaption>
 </figure>Introduction - in dryland (rainfed) production in Kansas, winter wheat serves as the base crop, as wheat stubble provides excellent soil cover that minimizes wind and water erosion and stores water for row crops. Therefore, residue management and weed control after wheat harvest are critical to conserving plant-available water for corn, grain sorghum, and soybeans planted the following year. Increased adoption of conservation tillage practices is mostly attributed to reduced costs and the historically high efficacy of herbicides for weed control. However, repeated applications of these herbicides have resulted in the development of herbicide resistance in several weed species. Limited new herbicide options and the high cost of herbicide programs that include multiple sites of action present a major challenge in no-till crop production.How Do Cover Crops Suppress Weeds? Research in Kansas indicates that growing cover crops after wheat harvest can suppress weeds and serve as an essential component of integrated weed management in no-till systems. Cover crops suppress weeds through competition for light and other resources, as well as through the release of allelopathic compounds. However, the ability of cover crops to suppress weeds is directly related to the amount of biomass produced, which depends on the cover crop species, planting time, seeding rate, termination time and method, and environmental conditions. In dryland regions where biomass production can be limited, grass cover crop species tend to produce more biomass and provide more effective weed suppression than legumes. For example, studies in southwest Kansas showed that winter triticale alone or triticale-hairy vetch mixed cover crops reduced kochia biomass by 98% compared to chemical fallow. However, monoculture winter pea or hairy vetch cover crops produced less biomass and had less effect on kochia biomass suppression. Studies in Trego County, KS, showed that oat-triticale-pea or oat-triticale cover crop mixtures provided 97% weed biomass suppression, and the decrease in weed biomass increased the efficacy of herbicide application to control weeds at the termination of cover crops.Selecting and Managing Cover Crops - because water availability may limit cover crop establishment in dryland regions, selecting productive, well-adapted species that can produce more biomass will be key to achieving the best weed suppression. Biomass production from single, three-species, and multi-species cover crop mixtures tends to be similar. If weed suppression is the goal, planting grass cover crops like triticale, millets, or sorghum-sudangrass, alone or in simple mixtures that produce a high amount of biomass, may be the best option. Furthermore, the cost of simple mixtures or single-species cover crops is lower than that of more complex mixtures.The challenge is growing cover crops that use less plant-available water so they don’t impact subsequent crop yields, but produce enough biomass for effective weed control. Using cover crops for forage provides economic benefits to offset revenue loss associated with potential decreased crop yields when cover crops are grown after wheat harvest ahead of a row crop. When grazing is desired, studies in western Kansas have shown that cover crops can be grazed without losing weed-suppression benefits. In that study, grazing or haying cover crops significantly reduced weed biomass compared with chemical fallow (which had received two herbicide applications) or standing cover crops.Termination Timing and Weed Management - growing cover crops for a longer period will increase biomass and may provide greater weed suppression benefits than an earlier termination date. However, late termination will increase water use by cover crops and may affect subsequent crop yields due to the increased biomass production. A later termination date for cover crops may result in cover crop species such as triticale, rye, and sudangrass going to seed and having volunteer plants in the next crop. Terminating cover crops at heading or soft dough will provide adequate weed suppression while also avoiding issues with volunteers from mature seed. The planting window for cover crops will depend on the targeted weeds and the individual producer's crop rotation. For example, spring- and summer-planted cover crops will provide better weed suppression of summer annual weeds such as Palmer amaranth. Still, fall-seeded cover crops are needed to suppress kochia.Take-Home Message · Cover crops after wheat harvest can provide significant weed suppression and reduce herbicide application costs.· Weed suppression by cover crops is directly related to the amount of biomass produced.· Grass cover crop species like triticale, millets, or sorghum-sudangrass, alone or in simple mixtures, produce higher amounts of biomass than legumes or complex mixtures.· Grazing cover crops does not impact their weed suppression benefits.Information provided by K-State Research &amp; Extension Agronomy specialist.

CAMPBELL: Cover crops for weed suppression after wheat harvest

The time following wheat harvest presents an opportunity to incorporate cover crops. Most of our district has received enough moisture to grow a cover crop with substantial biomass, which could also serve as forage for livestock.

The following is a summary of “Cover Crops Grown Post-Wheat for Forage Under Dryland Conditions in the High Plains”. The entire fact sheet can be viewed and downloaded at https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/MF3523.pdf.

Determining what to plant can be difficult given the varied species available for cover crops. For Kansas producers, local Land Grant Universities, and the Midwest Cover Crops Council, have developed a decision tool to help select species based on specified goals.

Goals for the timing and length of grazing are considerations in species selection. For early to late summer planting, crops can be grazed late summer through early fall. Warm-season species such as millets, sorghum-sudangrass, sudangrass, forage sorghum, sunflowers, cowpeas, lablab, or sunn hemp should be considered potential species to grow.

Complex mixtures of 6 or more species, often called “cocktails,” are commonly promoted. Research studies at Kansas State University and other universities have not found a benefit to cocktails compared to single species or simple mixtures of 2 to 4 species.

When managing grazing of cover crops, numerous options can be considered. The ultimate strategy chosen will be influenced by your overarching goal(s) for the cover crop. Cover crops are generally grown for more reasons than just achieving high levels of harvest efficiency as you would if this were a dedicated forage crop. You want to leave enough residue to maintain most of the benefits associated with planting cover crops.

The next decision to make is when to start grazing your cover crop. The timing of grazing relative to frost is an important consideration for post-wheat-planted cover crops. The biggest concern is with plants in the sorghum family, as frost damage to cell walls can release prussic acid. A forage planted immediately after wheat harvest can provide 30 or more days of grazing before frost. In other cases, delaying grazing until after a hard frost may be easier, particularly when it may be time-consuming to move animals on and off the field and difficult to predict frost timing. Grazing should be suspended for 7 to 10 days after a frost to avoid prussic acid poisoning. For plants with prussic acid potential, delay grazing until plants reach 18 to 24 inches of growth, as prussic acid is highest in small plants or regrowth.

Several key pieces of information are needed to estimate a stocking rate. Calculations can be made to estimate days of grazing for a given number of animals or the number of animals for a set grazing period. A Carrying Capacity Calculator located at https://www.drylandag.org/resources.html is also available to help with these calculations.

Taking advantage of the recent rains and full soil profile is an economical way to add grazing days for your livestock as well as helping your soil with the benefits of cover crops. If you would like to get the entire publication, you can contact our offices and we can get it to you.

K-State Extension is an equal opportunity employer and provider. Kansas State University, County Extension Councils, Extension Districts, and U.S. Department of Agriculture Cooperating.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1698681527025.jpeg" alt="written by: Alicia Boor - Cottonwood Extension District" />
 <figcaption>written by: Alicia Boor - Cottonwood Extension District</figcaption>
 </figure>The time following wheat harvest presents an opportunity to incorporate cover crops. Most of our district has received enough moisture to grow a cover crop with substantial biomass, which could also serve as forage for livestock.The following is a summary of “Cover Crops Grown Post-Wheat for Forage Under Dryland Conditions in the High Plains”. The entire fact sheet can be viewed and downloaded at https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/MF3523.pdf.Determining what to plant can be difficult given the varied species available for cover crops. For Kansas producers, local Land Grant Universities, and the Midwest Cover Crops Council, have developed a decision tool to help select species based on specified goals.Goals for the timing and length of grazing are considerations in species selection. For early to late summer planting, crops can be grazed late summer through early fall. Warm-season species such as millets, sorghum-sudangrass, sudangrass, forage sorghum, sunflowers, cowpeas, lablab, or sunn hemp should be considered potential species to grow.Complex mixtures of 6 or more species, often called “cocktails,” are commonly promoted. Research studies at Kansas State University and other universities have not found a benefit to cocktails compared to single species or simple mixtures of 2 to 4 species.When managing grazing of cover crops, numerous options can be considered. The ultimate strategy chosen will be influenced by your overarching goal(s) for the cover crop. Cover crops are generally grown for more reasons than just achieving high levels of harvest efficiency as you would if this were a dedicated forage crop. You want to leave enough residue to maintain most of the benefits associated with planting cover crops.The next decision to make is when to start grazing your cover crop. The timing of grazing relative to frost is an important consideration for post-wheat-planted cover crops. The biggest concern is with plants in the sorghum family, as frost damage to cell walls can release prussic acid. A forage planted immediately after wheat harvest can provide 30 or more days of grazing before frost. In other cases, delaying grazing until after a hard frost may be easier, particularly when it may be time-consuming to move animals on and off the field and difficult to predict frost timing. Grazing should be suspended for 7 to 10 days after a frost to avoid prussic acid poisoning. For plants with prussic acid potential, delay grazing until plants reach 18 to 24 inches of growth, as prussic acid is highest in small plants or regrowth.Several key pieces of information are needed to estimate a stocking rate. Calculations can be made to estimate days of grazing for a given number of animals or the number of animals for a set grazing period. A Carrying Capacity Calculator located at https://www.drylandag.org/resources.html is also available to help with these calculations.Taking advantage of the recent rains and full soil profile is an economical way to add grazing days for your livestock as well as helping your soil with the benefits of cover crops. If you would like to get the entire publication, you can contact our offices and we can get it to you.Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.K-State Extension is an equal opportunity employer and provider. Kansas State University, County Extension Councils, Extension Districts, and U.S. Department of Agriculture Cooperating.

BOOR: After wheat harvest a good time to plant cover crops

We experienced several beautiful days of weather during the Barton County Fair and ended with a couple that were hot and humid!

As we move through July and August, the temperatures continue to stay warm and it is important to be prepared to stay healthy and hydrated. The Barton County Health Department’s Public Health newsletter includes some great tips that may seem like common sense but I know I didn’t pay enough attention during the last day of the fair and ended up not feeling very well.

Staying hydrated – we often think of drinking water which is very important but other great sources can include fruits and vegetables. Things like strawberries, watermelon, grapes, cucumbers and much more can help with hydration as well as providing good nutrition. Fruit salads, vegetables with hummus or yogurt-based dips, or fruit smoothies can help keep us cool. One of my personal favorite smoothies includes coconut water, frozen mangoes, vanilla protein powder, a small squirt of honey, and a bit of ginger in a blender….cool, refreshing, and lots of good ingredients! And as odd as it may sound, a very cold glass of milk helped reset my system on Sunday when I had gotten too warm and not eaten enough for all of the running around that I was doing.

Enjoy the sun safely – protect your skin with sunscreen, a hat, and breathable clothing. Be sure to take plenty of breaks in the shade when you will be out for long periods of time. Being active outdoors is good for us but taking a walk or weeding the garden may be best saved for early morning or later in the evening. My family farms and several of the guys wear shirts that help with sun protection as well as making sure that their ears and the backs of their necks have regular sunscreen applications.

So, keep your water bottle handy, load up on fruits and veggies, wear your sun protection, and be sensible about time in the heat and sun.

Keep learning. Keep showing grace and kindness!

Michelle Beran is a Family and Community Wellness Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District. For more information on this article or other K-State Extension resources, email Michelle at mberan@ksu.edu or call Cottonwood Extension District – Barton Office at 620-793-1910.

All Kansas Extension education programs and materials are available to all individuals without discrimination on the basis of race, color, national origin, sex, age or disability.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2022/11/1668177490614.jpeg" alt="Michelle Beran&nbsp;a Family and Community Wellness Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Michelle Beran&nbsp;a Family and Community Wellness Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>We experienced several beautiful days of weather during the Barton County Fair and ended with a couple that were hot and humid!As we move through July and August, the temperatures continue to stay warm and it is important to be prepared to stay healthy and hydrated. The Barton County Health Department’s Public Health newsletter includes some great tips that may seem like common sense but I know I didn’t pay enough attention during the last day of the fair and ended up not feeling very well.Staying hydrated – we often think of drinking water which is very important but other great sources can include fruits and vegetables. Things like strawberries, watermelon, grapes, cucumbers and much more can help with hydration as well as providing good nutrition. Fruit salads, vegetables with hummus or yogurt-based dips, or fruit smoothies can help keep us cool. One of my personal favorite smoothies includes coconut water, frozen mangoes, vanilla protein powder, a small squirt of honey, and a bit of ginger in a blender….cool, refreshing, and lots of good ingredients! And as odd as it may sound, a very cold glass of milk helped reset my system on Sunday when I had gotten too warm and not eaten enough for all of the running around that I was doing.Enjoy the sun safely – protect your skin with sunscreen, a hat, and breathable clothing. Be sure to take plenty of breaks in the shade when you will be out for long periods of time. Being active outdoors is good for us but taking a walk or weeding the garden may be best saved for early morning or later in the evening. My family farms and several of the guys wear shirts that help with sun protection as well as making sure that their ears and the backs of their necks have regular sunscreen applications.So, keep your water bottle handy, load up on fruits and veggies, wear your sun protection, and be sensible about time in the heat and sun.Keep learning. Keep showing grace and kindness!Michelle Beran is a Family and Community Wellness Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District. For more information on this article or other K-State Extension resources, email Michelle at mberan@ksu.edu or call Cottonwood Extension District – Barton Office at 620-793-1910.All Kansas Extension education programs and materials are available to all individuals without discrimination on the basis of race, color, national origin, sex, age or disability.

BERAN: Stay healthy and hydrated as the summer season hits full swing

Recent warming temperatures and wet weather patterns have created ideal conditions for mosquitoes, said Kansas State University entomologist Raymond Cloyd.&nbsp;

“There are a lot of situations (near the home) where standing water is around,” he said. “We need to be aware of mosquitoes.”&nbsp;

Cloyd suggests clearing out the breeding environments used by mosquitoes to help mitigate their numbers near homes.&nbsp;“The way we approach mosquito management is source reduction, that is, remove all stagnant water from bird baths, old tires, wheelbarrows, or anything that holds water for an extended period of time,” he said.&nbsp;

Other ways to get rid of mosquito breeding grounds, according to the K-State Research and Extension publication,&nbsp;<a href="https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/mosquitoes-and-west-nile-virus_MF2571.pdf" target="_blank">Pests That Affect Human Health: Mosquitoes and West Nile Virus</a>: &nbsp;&nbsp;

People can also use a wide variety of repellents to lessen the presence of female mosquitoes during the times they’re most active, according to Cloyd. &nbsp;

“If you're going to be out at dusk and dawn, spray your body with a repellent such as DEET, Picaridin or IR3535,” he said. &nbsp;

Permethrin acts as another form of female mosquito control that affects them directly, but it must be applied properly to ensure human safety.&nbsp;

“Permethrin is an insecticide, but you don't spray it on your skin,” Cloyd said. “You spray it just on your clothing. When you come back inside take a shower (after application).”&nbsp;

Mosquito management can also occur during the early phases of the insect’s life cycle using a larvicide in the form of mosquito dunks or bits.&nbsp;

“You can put mosquito dunks and bits in water to kill mosquitos in the larval stage,” Cloyd said. "They're completely harmless to pets and fish; all they kill is mosquito larva. So if you have a pond that's not agitated or a bird bath you don't want to change, you can throw in these mosquito dunks or bits. They'll eat it then they’ll die.”&nbsp;

He added: “Dunks and bits are stomach poisons that contain the active ingredient,&nbsp;Bacillus thuringienesis (subspecies&nbsp;kurstaki, or Btk).&nbsp;Btk&nbsp;is a soil-borne bacterium that only kills mosquito larvae. It will manage mosquito larval populations for one to four weeks after application.”&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1698681527025.jpeg" alt="written by: Alicia Boor - Cottonwood Extension District" />
 <figcaption>written by: Alicia Boor - Cottonwood Extension District</figcaption>
 </figure>Recent warming temperatures and wet weather patterns have created ideal conditions for mosquitoes, said Kansas State University entomologist Raymond Cloyd.&nbsp;“There are a lot of situations (near the home) where standing water is around,” he said. “We need to be aware of mosquitoes.”&nbsp;Cloyd suggests clearing out the breeding environments used by mosquitoes to help mitigate their numbers near homes.&nbsp;“The way we approach mosquito management is source reduction, that is, remove all stagnant water from bird baths, old tires, wheelbarrows, or anything that holds water for an extended period of time,” he said.&nbsp;Other ways to get rid of mosquito breeding grounds, according to the K-State Research and Extension publication,&nbsp;<a href="https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/mosquitoes-and-west-nile-virus_MF2571.pdf" target="_blank">Pests That Affect Human Health: Mosquitoes and West Nile Virus</a>: &nbsp;&nbsp;<ul>
 <li>Eliminate artificial water-holding containers. If that is not possible, empty buckets, cans, bottles, used tires and other containers at least once a week. </li><li>Fill or drain tree holes, stumps and puddles. &nbsp;</li>
 </ul><ul>
 <li>Irrigate gardens and lawns carefully to prevent water standing for more than a few days. &nbsp;</li>
 </ul><ul>
 <li>Check for water trapped in plastic covers on boats and swimming pools. &nbsp;</li>
 </ul><ul>
 <li>Make sure rain gutters are clean and do not hold water.  &nbsp;</li>
 </ul>People can also use a wide variety of repellents to lessen the presence of female mosquitoes during the times they’re most active, according to Cloyd. &nbsp;“If you're going to be out at dusk and dawn, spray your body with a repellent such as DEET, Picaridin or IR3535,” he said. &nbsp;Permethrin acts as another form of female mosquito control that affects them directly, but it must be applied properly to ensure human safety.&nbsp;“Permethrin is an insecticide, but you don't spray it on your skin,” Cloyd said. “You spray it just on your clothing. When you come back inside take a shower (after application).”&nbsp;Mosquito management can also occur during the early phases of the insect’s life cycle using a larvicide in the form of mosquito dunks or bits.&nbsp;“You can put mosquito dunks and bits in water to kill mosquitos in the larval stage,” Cloyd said. "They're completely harmless to pets and fish; all they kill is mosquito larva. So if you have a pond that's not agitated or a bird bath you don't want to change, you can throw in these mosquito dunks or bits. They'll eat it then they’ll die.”&nbsp;He added: “Dunks and bits are stomach poisons that contain the active ingredient,&nbsp;Bacillus thuringienesis (subspecies&nbsp;kurstaki, or Btk).&nbsp;Btk&nbsp;is a soil-borne bacterium that only kills mosquito larvae. It will manage mosquito larval populations for one to four weeks after application.”&nbsp;Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.K-State Extension is an equal opportunity employer and provider. Kansas State University, County Extension Councils, Extension Districts, and U.S. Department of Agriculture Cooperating.

BOOR: Managing mosquitoes when conditions are ideal for the pests

Following wheat harvest, some producers may consider baling or even burning their wheat stubble--a practice more common southeast of us. Producers may consider burning for several reasons: as a management practice to control plant diseases or weeds, to improve the seedbed for the subsequent crop, and possibly for other reasons. While burning is inexpensive and baling provides additional income, producers should understand the true value of leaving crop residue in the field. Some of the information below comes from K-State Extension publication MF-2604, The Value of Crop Residue.

Loss of Nutrients - the products of burned wheat stubble are gases and ash. Nutrients such as nitrogen (N) and sulfur (S) are largely combustion products, while phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) remain in the ash. When residue is burned, about one-third to one-half of the N and S will combust. The nutrients in the ash may remain for use by the plants if it doesn’t blow or wash away first (more on that below). Therefore, instead of cycling these important plant nutrients back into the soil, they can essentially become air pollutants when the residue is burned. With the rise in price for nitrogen fertilizers, the amount of crop residue N that could be plant available in the future is worth more than in years past.

Table 1. Amounts of nutrients remaining in wheat stubble when assuming 50 bu/acre yield.

Protection from Soil Erosion - bare soil is subject to wind and water erosion. Without residue, the soil will receive the full impact of raindrops, thus increasing the amount of soil particles that may become detached during a rainfall event. Bare, tilled soils can lose up to 30 tons per acre of topsoil annually. In no-till or CRP systems where residue is left, annual soil losses are often less than 1 ton per acre. The detachment of soil particles can lead to crusting of the soil surface, contributing to greater amounts of sediment-laden runoff and, thus, reduced water infiltration and drier soils.

Leaving residue on the field also increases surface roughness, decreasing the risk of wind and water erosion. Most agricultural soils in Kansas have a “T” value, or tolerable amount of soil loss, of between 4 and 5 tons per acre per year, which is about equal to the thickness of a dime. To prevent water erosion, 30% ground cover or greater may be needed to reduce water erosion to “T” or less, especially in fields without erosion-control structures such as terraces.

Standing stubble is more effective at preventing wind erosion than flat stubble. Occasionally, accidental residue burns have resulted in devastating wind erosion events that recur until new ground cover is established. Once a field begins to erode from the wind, it is extremely difficult to stop. During an extended drought, the soil profile dries out, and even emergency tillage is ineffective at stopping wind erosion. Losing topsoil degrades soil productivity, and the long-term effects of this loss are difficult to quantify.

Soil Moisture, Infiltration Rates, and Conservation - wheat residue enhances soil moisture by increasing rainfall infiltration and reducing evaporation. Residues physically protect the soil surface and keep it receptive to water movement into and through it. Without physical protection, water and soil will run off the surface more quickly.

Ponded infiltration rates were measured at Hesston in September 2007. Very low infiltration rates (1.9 mm/hour) were observed for continuous winter wheat in which the residue was burned each year before disking and planting the following crop. In contrast, high infiltration rates (13.3 mm/hour) were observed for a no-till wheat/grain sorghum rotation.

Another way residue increases soil moisture is by reducing evaporation rates. Residue blocks solar radiation and cools the soil surface by several degrees in summer. Evaporation rates can decline dramatically when the soil is protected with residue. Research from dryland experiments has shown that crop residues are worth 2 to 4 inches of water annually in the central Great Plains states (Efficient crop water use in Kansas, MF3066).

Information provided by DeAnn Presley, K-State Extension Soil Management Specialist

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/4/1681266655144.jpeg" alt="written by: Stacy Campbell - Cottonwood Extension District" />
 <figcaption>written by: Stacy Campbell - Cottonwood Extension District</figcaption>
 </figure>Following wheat harvest, some producers may consider baling or even burning their wheat stubble--a practice more common southeast of us. Producers may consider burning for several reasons: as a management practice to control plant diseases or weeds, to improve the seedbed for the subsequent crop, and possibly for other reasons. While burning is inexpensive and baling provides additional income, producers should understand the true value of leaving crop residue in the field. Some of the information below comes from K-State Extension publication MF-2604, The Value of Crop Residue.Loss of Nutrients - the products of burned wheat stubble are gases and ash. Nutrients such as nitrogen (N) and sulfur (S) are largely combustion products, while phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) remain in the ash. When residue is burned, about one-third to one-half of the N and S will combust. The nutrients in the ash may remain for use by the plants if it doesn’t blow or wash away first (more on that below). Therefore, instead of cycling these important plant nutrients back into the soil, they can essentially become air pollutants when the residue is burned. With the rise in price for nitrogen fertilizers, the amount of crop residue N that could be plant available in the future is worth more than in years past.Table 1. Amounts of nutrients remaining in wheat stubble when assuming 50 bu/acre yield.<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2026/6/1782773564038.jpeg" alt=" " />
 <figcaption> </figcaption>
 </figure>Protection from Soil Erosion - bare soil is subject to wind and water erosion. Without residue, the soil will receive the full impact of raindrops, thus increasing the amount of soil particles that may become detached during a rainfall event. Bare, tilled soils can lose up to 30 tons per acre of topsoil annually. In no-till or CRP systems where residue is left, annual soil losses are often less than 1 ton per acre. The detachment of soil particles can lead to crusting of the soil surface, contributing to greater amounts of sediment-laden runoff and, thus, reduced water infiltration and drier soils.Leaving residue on the field also increases surface roughness, decreasing the risk of wind and water erosion. Most agricultural soils in Kansas have a “T” value, or tolerable amount of soil loss, of between 4 and 5 tons per acre per year, which is about equal to the thickness of a dime. To prevent water erosion, 30% ground cover or greater may be needed to reduce water erosion to “T” or less, especially in fields without erosion-control structures such as terraces.Standing stubble is more effective at preventing wind erosion than flat stubble. Occasionally, accidental residue burns have resulted in devastating wind erosion events that recur until new ground cover is established. Once a field begins to erode from the wind, it is extremely difficult to stop. During an extended drought, the soil profile dries out, and even emergency tillage is ineffective at stopping wind erosion. Losing topsoil degrades soil productivity, and the long-term effects of this loss are difficult to quantify.Soil Moisture, Infiltration Rates, and Conservation - wheat residue enhances soil moisture by increasing rainfall infiltration and reducing evaporation. Residues physically protect the soil surface and keep it receptive to water movement into and through it. Without physical protection, water and soil will run off the surface more quickly.Ponded infiltration rates were measured at Hesston in September 2007. Very low infiltration rates (1.9 mm/hour) were observed for continuous winter wheat in which the residue was burned each year before disking and planting the following crop. In contrast, high infiltration rates (13.3 mm/hour) were observed for a no-till wheat/grain sorghum rotation.Another way residue increases soil moisture is by reducing evaporation rates. Residue blocks solar radiation and cools the soil surface by several degrees in summer. Evaporation rates can decline dramatically when the soil is protected with residue. Research from dryland experiments has shown that crop residues are worth 2 to 4 inches of water annually in the central Great Plains states (Efficient crop water use in Kansas, MF3066).Information provided by DeAnn Presley, K-State Extension Soil Management Specialist

CAMPBELL: Consider the value of soil residue before baling or burning wheat stubble

Accounting for nitrogen (N) applied with irrigation water can save you money on your fertilizer bill. When not removed with crop harvest, fertilizer, and manure N can leach into the groundwater where it accumulates over time as nitrate. Several factors affect nitrate leaching, such as fertilization rates, precipitation patterns, irrigation rates, soil properties, depth to groundwater, and geology. Therefore, nitrate concentrations in irrigation water are highly variable across the state. Recent analyses of groundwater nitrate in south-central Kansas, for example, showed concentrations ranging from less than 1 ppm to over 50 ppm nitrate-nitrogen.

How much N is applied with my irrigation water? Estimating the amount of N applied with irrigation water is obtained by multiplying the nitrate concentration in the irrigation water by the irrigation depth and the constant 0.226 (see equation below).

For example, a producer applying 12 inches of water from a well with a nitrate concentration of 15 ppm N would be applying approximately 40 lb N/ac with irrigation water over the growing season (15 ppm x 12 inches x 0.226 = 40.7 lb N/ac).

Recent price increases have raised N near $1/lb of N (28-0-0 selling at $560 per ton), greatly increasing the value of N in irrigation water.

How do I adjust my fertilizer N rates based on irrigation water? The best strategies for adjusting N fertilizer rates will vary from one producer to another, depending on their nutrient management system. For example, producers who regularly fertigate could reduce fertigation rates based on the N applied through irrigation water earlier in the season. Producers who rely on preplant applications of N should include a credit based on the typical amount of annual irrigation they would apply when calculating their N recommendation a resource to help is KSU soil test interpretation and fertilizer recommendations MF2586.

Producers should consult with their extension agent or agronomist to select the best options for their cropping system. Accounting for N in irrigation water can save producers money on their fertilizer bills and reduce future N leaching, thereby protecting drinking water quality. It all starts with testing the irrigation water.

How do I test my irrigation water? Test your irrigation water by collecting a sample in a clean container and sending it to a laboratory that offers irrigation water analysis, such as the K-State Soil Testing lab or a commercial soil and water testing lab.

· Most labs will only need 4 to 8 ounces of water and will supply containers for testing.

· Check with your selected lab to confirm their requirements, fees, and services.

· The container must be clean and free from contaminants. Triple rinse the container with irrigation water before filling.

· Clearly label the bottle as irrigation water, not for human consumption, and add any other information required by the testing lab.

Steps for collecting irrigation water:

1. Collect samples after the first irrigation set or cycle has been completed, preferably during the peak of the pumping season.

2. Allow the well to run for 1 to 2 hours prior to sampling.

3. Allow water to run from the faucet or valve before collecting the sample, i.e., do not catch the first water exiting the valve

4. If multiple wells are used to feed the irrigation system, it’s preferable to take the sample from a point after the water has been mixed. Alternatively, the wells can be sampled independently, and a weighted average calculated based on each well’s flow rate,

5. Do not collect samples while injecting fertilizer or other chemicals.

6. Keep the sample cool and send it to the laboratory as soon as possible.

The best practice is to collect a few samples throughout the summer because nitrate concentrations can vary throughout the season as the well draws water from different parts of the aquifer.

Free Nitrate Testing Available for a Limited Time - 100 free nitrate tests available on a first-come, first-served basis. The Kansas Water Institute is providing a limited number of free nitrate tests. To obtain your free test, complete the online form at https://kstate.qualtrics.com/jfe/form/SV_6yDiv62qL15IGPk and follow the instructions.

Stacy Campbell is a Crop Production Extension agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact him by e-mail at scampbel@ksu.edu or by calling 785-628-9430.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/4/1681266655144.jpeg" alt="written by: Stacy Campbell - Cottonwood Extension District" />
 <figcaption>written by: Stacy Campbell - Cottonwood Extension District</figcaption>
 </figure>Accounting for nitrogen (N) applied with irrigation water can save you money on your fertilizer bill. When not removed with crop harvest, fertilizer, and manure N can leach into the groundwater where it accumulates over time as nitrate. Several factors affect nitrate leaching, such as fertilization rates, precipitation patterns, irrigation rates, soil properties, depth to groundwater, and geology. Therefore, nitrate concentrations in irrigation water are highly variable across the state. Recent analyses of groundwater nitrate in south-central Kansas, for example, showed concentrations ranging from less than 1 ppm to over 50 ppm nitrate-nitrogen.How much N is applied with my irrigation water? Estimating the amount of N applied with irrigation water is obtained by multiplying the nitrate concentration in the irrigation water by the irrigation depth and the constant 0.226 (see equation below).<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2026/6/1782323254346.jpeg" alt=" " />
 <figcaption> </figcaption>
 </figure>For example, a producer applying 12 inches of water from a well with a nitrate concentration of 15 ppm N would be applying approximately 40 lb N/ac with irrigation water over the growing season (15 ppm x 12 inches x 0.226 = 40.7 lb N/ac).Recent price increases have raised N near $1/lb of N (28-0-0 selling at $560 per ton), greatly increasing the value of N in irrigation water.How do I adjust my fertilizer N rates based on irrigation water? The best strategies for adjusting N fertilizer rates will vary from one producer to another, depending on their nutrient management system. For example, producers who regularly fertigate could reduce fertigation rates based on the N applied through irrigation water earlier in the season. Producers who rely on preplant applications of N should include a credit based on the typical amount of annual irrigation they would apply when calculating their N recommendation a resource to help is KSU soil test interpretation and fertilizer recommendations MF2586.Producers should consult with their extension agent or agronomist to select the best options for their cropping system. Accounting for N in irrigation water can save producers money on their fertilizer bills and reduce future N leaching, thereby protecting drinking water quality. It all starts with testing the irrigation water.How do I test my irrigation water? Test your irrigation water by collecting a sample in a clean container and sending it to a laboratory that offers irrigation water analysis, such as the K-State Soil Testing lab or a commercial soil and water testing lab.· Most labs will only need 4 to 8 ounces of water and will supply containers for testing.· Check with your selected lab to confirm their requirements, fees, and services.· The container must be clean and free from contaminants. Triple rinse the container with irrigation water before filling.· Clearly label the bottle as irrigation water, not for human consumption, and add any other information required by the testing lab.Steps for collecting irrigation water:1. Collect samples after the first irrigation set or cycle has been completed, preferably during the peak of the pumping season.2. Allow the well to run for 1 to 2 hours prior to sampling.3. Allow water to run from the faucet or valve before collecting the sample, i.e., do not catch the first water exiting the valve4. If multiple wells are used to feed the irrigation system, it’s preferable to take the sample from a point after the water has been mixed. Alternatively, the wells can be sampled independently, and a weighted average calculated based on each well’s flow rate,5. Do not collect samples while injecting fertilizer or other chemicals.6. Keep the sample cool and send it to the laboratory as soon as possible.The best practice is to collect a few samples throughout the summer because nitrate concentrations can vary throughout the season as the well draws water from different parts of the aquifer.Free Nitrate Testing Available for a Limited Time - 100 free nitrate tests available on a first-come, first-served basis. The Kansas Water Institute is providing a limited number of free nitrate tests. To obtain your free test, complete the online form at https://kstate.qualtrics.com/jfe/form/SV_6yDiv62qL15IGPk and follow the instructions.Stacy Campbell is a Crop Production Extension agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact him by e-mail at scampbel@ksu.edu or by calling 785-628-9430.

CAMPBELL: Saving fertilizer dollars - nitrate testing irrigation water

The explosive cracking sounds of trees crashing to the ground are sickening to the stomach. With the damaging storms that have affected the area lately, trees will require special care and can make a full recovery.

Remove debris, then assess the damage The first step in caring for damaged trees is to remove all debris. This is mainly a safety factor, but also enables you to completely assess the extent of the damage.

Can the tree be saved? Next, determine whether the tree can be saved. Most trees will be salvageable and will need time to recover. If there is heavy splitting of the bark and the cambium, growth layer is exposed, or the main trunk is split, the tree will probably not survive and should be removed.

Also, if there are so many broken limbs that the form of the tree is destroyed, replacement may be the best option.

Once it has been determined that the tree can be saved then pruning begins. Broken branches should be cut back to the next larger branch or back to the trunk. Never leave a stub when making a pruning cut. Stubs lead to rot and decay, and slow the healing process.

When cutting back to the next larger crotch or branch angle, do not cut flush with the branch. Instead make the cut in the area referred to as the branch collar. The collar is a transition area between the branch and the trunk. Cutting flush with the branch or trunk leaves a larger wound, which takes longer to heal. The collar area is raised with bark tissue, much like the crease on your hand where your thumb joins the other fingers.

Larger limbs should be taken off in stages. Cutting a large branch at once often leads to a strip of bark being ripped from the tree increasing the amount of damage. The following steps to removing large branches are:

1. First cut about fifteen inches from the trunk or next larger branch. Start from the bottom and cut about one third of the way up through the branch.

2. The second cut should be made from the top down, a few inches out from the first under cut. The branch will break away at the first cut as you make the second cut.

3. Lastly, cut the remaining branch at the collar, which can be supported to prevent the bark stripping.

Avoid "door knockers." Hire a local reputable tree company Large trees are best handled by a reputable tree care service. When selecting a firm always ask for a certified arborist and never pay in advance. Quality companies will bill or collect after the work is completed.

Topping is not a recommended practice of repairing storm damage. Topping weakens trees and makes them more susceptible to disease. If the damage is this severe then the tree should be removed. Also, no wound dressings are needed.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1698681527025.jpeg" alt="written by: Alicia Boor - Cottonwood Extension District" />
 <figcaption>written by: Alicia Boor - Cottonwood Extension District</figcaption>
 </figure>The explosive cracking sounds of trees crashing to the ground are sickening to the stomach. With the damaging storms that have affected the area lately, trees will require special care and can make a full recovery.Remove debris, then assess the damage The first step in caring for damaged trees is to remove all debris. This is mainly a safety factor, but also enables you to completely assess the extent of the damage.Can the tree be saved? Next, determine whether the tree can be saved. Most trees will be salvageable and will need time to recover. If there is heavy splitting of the bark and the cambium, growth layer is exposed, or the main trunk is split, the tree will probably not survive and should be removed.Also, if there are so many broken limbs that the form of the tree is destroyed, replacement may be the best option.Once it has been determined that the tree can be saved then pruning begins. Broken branches should be cut back to the next larger branch or back to the trunk. Never leave a stub when making a pruning cut. Stubs lead to rot and decay, and slow the healing process.When cutting back to the next larger crotch or branch angle, do not cut flush with the branch. Instead make the cut in the area referred to as the branch collar. The collar is a transition area between the branch and the trunk. Cutting flush with the branch or trunk leaves a larger wound, which takes longer to heal. The collar area is raised with bark tissue, much like the crease on your hand where your thumb joins the other fingers.Larger limbs should be taken off in stages. Cutting a large branch at once often leads to a strip of bark being ripped from the tree increasing the amount of damage. The following steps to removing large branches are:1. First cut about fifteen inches from the trunk or next larger branch. Start from the bottom and cut about one third of the way up through the branch.2. The second cut should be made from the top down, a few inches out from the first under cut. The branch will break away at the first cut as you make the second cut.3. Lastly, cut the remaining branch at the collar, which can be supported to prevent the bark stripping.Avoid "door knockers." Hire a local reputable tree company Large trees are best handled by a reputable tree care service. When selecting a firm always ask for a certified arborist and never pay in advance. Quality companies will bill or collect after the work is completed.Topping is not a recommended practice of repairing storm damage. Topping weakens trees and makes them more susceptible to disease. If the damage is this severe then the tree should be removed. Also, no wound dressings are needed.Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.K-State Extension is an equal opportunity employer and provider. Kansas State University, County Extension Councils, Extension Districts, and U.S. Department of Agriculture Cooperating.

BOOR: Tips for pruning trees after a big storm

It’s fun for the whole family during the Back To School Bash, sponsored in-part
by the 4-H Holding Board from 10 a.m. until 2 p.m., Saturday August 1st
at the old 4-H grounds on North Highway 281. Enjoy bounce houses, a petting
zoo, car show, face painting, touch-a-truck, music and prizes. The Back To School
Bash is also presented by Kansas State University and Barton County Extension
Cottonwood District.

It’s fun for the whole family during the Back To School Bash, sponsored in-part
by the 4-H Holding Board from 10 a.m. until 2 p.m., Saturday August 1st
at the old 4-H grounds on North Highway 281. Enjoy bounce houses, a petting
zoo, car show, face painting, touch-a-truck, music and prizes. The Back To School
Bash is also presented by Kansas State University and Barton County Extension
Cottonwood District.<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2026/6/1782149907276.jpeg" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure><figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2026/6/1782149926674.jpeg" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>

Back To School Bash  August 1st 

With the 2026 wheat harvest in full swing it is time to think about weed control in wheat stubble. When soil moisture conditions are favorable, weeds that have been suppressed by the canopy will grow rapidly once crop competition is removed. In addition, weeds that have emerged through the wheat canopy will be damaged during harvest and will quickly begin regrowth. Delaying control can result in lost soil moisture that could be used for crop production, as well as weed seed production, which will cause difficulties in the future.

When thinking about weed control in wheat stubble, there are two priorities – controlling already emerged weeds and preventing later flushes. Making applications before weeds exceed 4 to 6 inches is necessary for good control of already emerged weeds. Residual herbicides are recommended to reduce the number of herbicide applications required to control multiple flushes of weeds.

Despite a growing number of herbicide-resistant weeds, glyphosate plus 2,4-D LVE and/or dicamba continue to be important for weed control in wheat stubble. However, these herbicides alone are not likely to provide adequate control of pigweeds or kochia, especially when applied in the hot, dry conditions that are common after wheat harvest. Some herbicide options commonly used to control weeds after wheat harvest are: Paraquat (Gramoxone, others), metribuzin, saflufenacil (Sharpen), tiafenacil (Reviton), flumioxazin (Valor, others), and sulfentrazone (Spartan, others). To read the full article which goes into more detail on each herbicide option, search for Extension Agronomy eUpdates, which you can also subscribe too.

One final note regarding paraquat. Limited research out of Australia suggests applying paraquat 2 weeks after a glyphosate application will increase weed control. This is called a ‘double knock’ strategy. This information is included here not as a recommendation per se, but to encourage careful thought about when you want to utilize contact herbicides in your fallow weed management system. If paraquat were sprayed with or before glyphosate, the rapid damage to leaf tissue with prevent uptake and translocation of glyphosate. However, if a glyphosate application partially controls weeds, there will be sufficient leaf area 2 weeks after application for paraquat to be effective. Research to evaluate Palmer amaranth control in wheat stubble was conducted in Hays during 2019 and 2020. Herbicides were applied approximately 3 weeks after harvest to Palmer amaranth that was two to three feet tall. Palmer amaranth control 4 weeks after application in general, treatments that included paraquat (Gramoxone) resulted in the greatest Palmer amaranth control.

For more information, you can search for the 2026 Chemical Weed Control for Field Crops, Pastures, Rangeland, and Noncropland, K-State publication SRP-1194 as well. Information provided by K-State weed control specialists.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/4/1681266655144.jpeg" alt="written by: Stacy Campbell - Cottonwood Extension District" />
 <figcaption>written by: Stacy Campbell - Cottonwood Extension District</figcaption>
 </figure>With the 2026 wheat harvest in full swing it is time to think about weed control in wheat stubble. When soil moisture conditions are favorable, weeds that have been suppressed by the canopy will grow rapidly once crop competition is removed. In addition, weeds that have emerged through the wheat canopy will be damaged during harvest and will quickly begin regrowth. Delaying control can result in lost soil moisture that could be used for crop production, as well as weed seed production, which will cause difficulties in the future.When thinking about weed control in wheat stubble, there are two priorities – controlling already emerged weeds and preventing later flushes. Making applications before weeds exceed 4 to 6 inches is necessary for good control of already emerged weeds. Residual herbicides are recommended to reduce the number of herbicide applications required to control multiple flushes of weeds.Despite a growing number of herbicide-resistant weeds, glyphosate plus 2,4-D LVE and/or dicamba continue to be important for weed control in wheat stubble. However, these herbicides alone are not likely to provide adequate control of pigweeds or kochia, especially when applied in the hot, dry conditions that are common after wheat harvest. Some herbicide options commonly used to control weeds after wheat harvest are: Paraquat (Gramoxone, others), metribuzin, saflufenacil (Sharpen), tiafenacil (Reviton), flumioxazin (Valor, others), and sulfentrazone (Spartan, others). To read the full article which goes into more detail on each herbicide option, search for Extension Agronomy eUpdates, which you can also subscribe too.One final note regarding paraquat. Limited research out of Australia suggests applying paraquat 2 weeks after a glyphosate application will increase weed control. This is called a ‘double knock’ strategy. This information is included here not as a recommendation per se, but to encourage careful thought about when you want to utilize contact herbicides in your fallow weed management system. If paraquat were sprayed with or before glyphosate, the rapid damage to leaf tissue with prevent uptake and translocation of glyphosate. However, if a glyphosate application partially controls weeds, there will be sufficient leaf area 2 weeks after application for paraquat to be effective. Research to evaluate Palmer amaranth control in wheat stubble was conducted in Hays during 2019 and 2020. Herbicides were applied approximately 3 weeks after harvest to Palmer amaranth that was two to three feet tall. Palmer amaranth control 4 weeks after application in general, treatments that included paraquat (Gramoxone) resulted in the greatest Palmer amaranth control.For more information, you can search for the 2026 Chemical Weed Control for Field Crops, Pastures, Rangeland, and Noncropland, K-State publication SRP-1194 as well. Information provided by K-State weed control specialists.Stacy Campbell is a Crop Production Extension agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact him by e-mail at scampbel@ksu.edu or by calling 785-628-9430.

CAMPBELL: Post-harvest weed control strategies for wheat stubble

It’s Fair time again in Barton County! Youth from all of our communities have been working hard on their various projects and will be displaying them for the community to see. &nbsp;Whether you enjoy photography, artwork, or livestock, there is something for everyone at the fair.

I tend to spend most of my time in Expo 3 with the livestock and the 4-Hers that are responsible for them. All animals must be acquired for the fair by May 1 to be eligible for the shows. The children then for the next several months are responsible for their care and training to prepare them for showing. This requires a lot of time and effort to have an animal ready in time. Animals, when they are brought home, may not be accustomed to being handled by humans or being in close contact with them. It is the child that then calms them down and gets them used to a human presence close up. 

For some animals, that is being trained to a halter and walking with someone. For others, such as hogs, they need to be trained to walk calmly in a ring with other animals, guided by a small whip. The children work tirelessly making sure that their animals are at the weight they need to be, and are clean and calm for show day. Some of the children in the project even attend classes and workshops to learn how to be a better show-person in the ring. What you are seeing when you make it out to the fair is the culmination of all that hard work and effort.

All of this hard work is a valuable learning experience for the 4-Hers that will help them out later in life. By learning life skills early, they are better equipped to handle situations as adults such as speaking confidentially to a group, preparing for an upcoming job, and time management to effectively finish a project. The real world is tough but 4-H and the projects that they complete for the fair help the children prepare for the world when they grow up.

The Fair starts June 24 and runs through the 28th. Come out and support the youth of our communities and see what projects they have on display. It’s a fun filled 5 days of the children showing off all of their hard work, and an enjoyable time for the entire family. For a schedule of events, you can go to bartoncountyfair.com.&nbsp; We hope to see you all there!

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1698681527025.jpeg" alt="written by: Alicia Boor - Cottonwood Extension District" />
 <figcaption>written by: Alicia Boor - Cottonwood Extension District</figcaption>
 </figure>It’s Fair time again in Barton County! Youth from all of our communities have been working hard on their various projects and will be displaying them for the community to see. &nbsp;Whether you enjoy photography, artwork, or livestock, there is something for everyone at the fair.I tend to spend most of my time in Expo 3 with the livestock and the 4-Hers that are responsible for them. All animals must be acquired for the fair by May 1 to be eligible for the shows. The children then for the next several months are responsible for their care and training to prepare them for showing. This requires a lot of time and effort to have an animal ready in time. Animals, when they are brought home, may not be accustomed to being handled by humans or being in close contact with them. It is the child that then calms them down and gets them used to a human presence close up. For some animals, that is being trained to a halter and walking with someone. For others, such as hogs, they need to be trained to walk calmly in a ring with other animals, guided by a small whip. The children work tirelessly making sure that their animals are at the weight they need to be, and are clean and calm for show day. Some of the children in the project even attend classes and workshops to learn how to be a better show-person in the ring. What you are seeing when you make it out to the fair is the culmination of all that hard work and effort.All of this hard work is a valuable learning experience for the 4-Hers that will help them out later in life. By learning life skills early, they are better equipped to handle situations as adults such as speaking confidentially to a group, preparing for an upcoming job, and time management to effectively finish a project. The real world is tough but 4-H and the projects that they complete for the fair help the children prepare for the world when they grow up.The Fair starts June 24 and runs through the 28th. Come out and support the youth of our communities and see what projects they have on display. It’s a fun filled 5 days of the children showing off all of their hard work, and an enjoyable time for the entire family. For a schedule of events, you can go to bartoncountyfair.com.&nbsp; We hope to see you all there!Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.K-State Extension is an equal opportunity employer and provider. Kansas State University, County Extension Councils, Extension Districts, and U.S. Department of Agriculture Cooperating.

BOOR: Get ready for the Barton County Fair that runs June 24-28

Outside of my work responsibilities, I also help coordinate the meals for our farm family during several big events each year. Wheat harvest is at the top of the priority list! On any given evening, I and my sisters-in-law may feed anywhere from 8-20 and our crew tries to take turns eating so that they are never completely shut down. This makes for a tricky situation in keeping food at correct temperatures.

K-State food scientist, Karen Blakeslee, recently shared some great tips for harvest meals and these can also be used for trips to the lake, a picnic at the park or a backyard barbeque.

· Clean. Blakeslee suggests packing wet wash clothes with soap to clean dirty hands. “Another option is a spare soap bottle with a mix of water and soap,” she said. “Keep in mind that hand sanitizer is not effective on dirty hands. Wash them first, then apply hand sanitizer for best results.”

· Separate. Keep raw meat and poultry away from ready-to-eat-foods. Use a clean utensil for each dish. Use a clean plate when going for second helpings of food.

· Cook. Use a food thermometer to check for doneness. Cook all poultry to an internal temperature of 165 degrees Fahrenheit. Cook burgers and sliders to an internal temperature of 160 F.

· Chill. Keep hot foods hot and cold foods cold. Put out food in batches.

She also notes that many foods can be prepared in advance and frozen for use later such as baked goods like bread, cookies, cupcakes, and more.

“After baking, cool these foods completely before packaging,” she said.

“Many casseroles, meat pies or pasta dishes can be frozen and baked from the freezer,” Blakeslee said. “Use aluminum foil containers or other containers made to go from the freezer to the oven with ease.”

Food aside, Blakeslee encourages families to make time to eat together during a break in the harvest.

“Set up a portable table and chairs to eat together, if possible,” she said. “That break from harvest activity is a great way to recharge and catch up with others before heading back out to the field.”

While we don’t completely shut down, we do try to eat while moving between fields or run with a short crew for a little while to give everyone a break. My car will carry a 6-foot folding table, several bag chairs, and a tote organized with plates, paper towels instead of napkins, silverware, hand wipes, cleaning wipes, and a box of trash bags.

Our crew are not big on dessert so we make sure that the cooler is packed with fresh fruit as a cool grab-and-go.

Harvest is one of my favorite times of year! Safety – food, mechanical, and on the road - are so important. Take a few minutes to pull off the road safely and watch the crews with those big machines run.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2022/11/1668179445671.jpeg" alt="written by: Michelle Beran - Cottonwood Extension District" />
 <figcaption>written by: Michelle Beran - Cottonwood Extension District</figcaption>
 </figure>Outside of my work responsibilities, I also help coordinate the meals for our farm family during several big events each year. Wheat harvest is at the top of the priority list! On any given evening, I and my sisters-in-law may feed anywhere from 8-20 and our crew tries to take turns eating so that they are never completely shut down. This makes for a tricky situation in keeping food at correct temperatures.K-State food scientist, Karen Blakeslee, recently shared some great tips for harvest meals and these can also be used for trips to the lake, a picnic at the park or a backyard barbeque.· Clean. Blakeslee suggests packing wet wash clothes with soap to clean dirty hands. “Another option is a spare soap bottle with a mix of water and soap,” she said. “Keep in mind that hand sanitizer is not effective on dirty hands. Wash them first, then apply hand sanitizer for best results.”· Separate. Keep raw meat and poultry away from ready-to-eat-foods. Use a clean utensil for each dish. Use a clean plate when going for second helpings of food.· Cook. Use a food thermometer to check for doneness. Cook all poultry to an internal temperature of 165 degrees Fahrenheit. Cook burgers and sliders to an internal temperature of 160 F.· Chill. Keep hot foods hot and cold foods cold. Put out food in batches.She also notes that many foods can be prepared in advance and frozen for use later such as baked goods like bread, cookies, cupcakes, and more.“After baking, cool these foods completely before packaging,” she said.“Many casseroles, meat pies or pasta dishes can be frozen and baked from the freezer,” Blakeslee said. “Use aluminum foil containers or other containers made to go from the freezer to the oven with ease.”Food aside, Blakeslee encourages families to make time to eat together during a break in the harvest.“Set up a portable table and chairs to eat together, if possible,” she said. “That break from harvest activity is a great way to recharge and catch up with others before heading back out to the field.”While we don’t completely shut down, we do try to eat while moving between fields or run with a short crew for a little while to give everyone a break. My car will carry a 6-foot folding table, several bag chairs, and a tote organized with plates, paper towels instead of napkins, silverware, hand wipes, cleaning wipes, and a box of trash bags.Our crew are not big on dessert so we make sure that the cooler is packed with fresh fruit as a cool grab-and-go.Harvest is one of my favorite times of year! Safety – food, mechanical, and on the road - are so important. Take a few minutes to pull off the road safely and watch the crews with those big machines run.Keep learning. Keep showing grace and kindness!Michelle Beran is a Family and Community Wellness Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District. For more information on this article or other K-State Extension resources, email Michelle at mberan@ksu.edu or call Cottonwood Extension District – Barton Office at 620-793-1910.All Kansas Extension education programs and materials are available to all individuals without discrimination on the basis of race, color, national origin, sex, age or disability.

BERAN: Harvest meal safety that also works for picnics and barbecues

Weeds don't wait, and neither should your management strategy. Join K-State specialists, industry representatives and western Kansas agriculture producers for a practical field day focused on weed management in pastures and rangelands and row crop systems on Thursday, June 18th beginning at 9 a.m. to noon at the K-State Agricultural Research Center in Hays, 1232 240th Avenue.

The field day will bring together K-State researchers, industry representatives, and western Kansas producers to explore practical weed management strategies for pasture, rangeland, and row crop systems. As producers face increasing herbicide resistance, tighter margins, and growing interest in precision technologies, the event will highlight practical tools and research relevant to weed management decisions in western Kansas production systems.

· Weed management in pastures and rangelands

· Herbicide programs for weed control in fallow, sorghum and corn

· AI and weed recognition for targeted herbicide applications

· Occasional tillage for weed management

Presentations will be led by K-State College of Agriculture researchers and extension specialists, including Jeremie Kouame, Keith Harmoney, Augustine Obour, Sarah Lancaster, and Patrick Geier. Industry representatives also will share emerging tools and technologies shaping weed management.

Local producer Adam Brull will provide a producer perspective on adopting and evaluating weed management strategies and technologies under real-world conditions.

Lunch will be provided following the program. The event is free to attend. Walk-ins are welcome, though advance registration is encouraged to help organizers plan meals and materials.

RSVP is appreciated but not required by calling 785-625-3425.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/4/1681266655144.jpeg" alt="written by: Stacy Campbell - Cottonwood Extension District" />
 <figcaption>written by: Stacy Campbell - Cottonwood Extension District</figcaption>
 </figure>Weeds don't wait, and neither should your management strategy. Join K-State specialists, industry representatives and western Kansas agriculture producers for a practical field day focused on weed management in pastures and rangelands and row crop systems on Thursday, June 18th beginning at 9 a.m. to noon at the K-State Agricultural Research Center in Hays, 1232 240th Avenue.The field day will bring together K-State researchers, industry representatives, and western Kansas producers to explore practical weed management strategies for pasture, rangeland, and row crop systems. As producers face increasing herbicide resistance, tighter margins, and growing interest in precision technologies, the event will highlight practical tools and research relevant to weed management decisions in western Kansas production systems.Topics will include:· Weed management in pastures and rangelands· Herbicide programs for weed control in fallow, sorghum and corn· AI and weed recognition for targeted herbicide applications· Drone technology for weed management· See &amp; Spray technology· Autonomous robots for weed control· Occasional tillage for weed managementPresentations will be led by K-State College of Agriculture researchers and extension specialists, including Jeremie Kouame, Keith Harmoney, Augustine Obour, Sarah Lancaster, and Patrick Geier. Industry representatives also will share emerging tools and technologies shaping weed management.Local producer Adam Brull will provide a producer perspective on adopting and evaluating weed management strategies and technologies under real-world conditions.Lunch will be provided following the program. The event is free to attend. Walk-ins are welcome, though advance registration is encouraged to help organizers plan meals and materials.RSVP is appreciated but not required by calling 785-625-3425.Stacy Campbell is a Crop Production Extension agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact him by e-mail at scampbel@ksu.edu or by calling 785-628-9430.

CAMPBELL: K-State Weed Management Field Day is June 18

A healthy lawn may be the best defense homeowners have against invasive weeds, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan, adding that proper maintenance can prevent many common weed problems before they begin.

“Weeds invading a home lawn can feel like an ongoing battle,” McKernan said. “Instead of constantly applying chemical treatments, homeowners should focus on growing strong, vigorous turfgrass that naturally crowds out weeds.”

McKernan said healthy grass competes with weeds for sunlight, water and nutrients, making it harder for unwanted plants to take hold. He noted that many weed problems stem from common lawn care mistakes that weaken turfgrass and create opportunities for weeds to spread.

One of the most common problems is mowing grass too short. McKernan said scalping the lawn weakens turfgrass and allows more sunlight to reach weed seeds, encouraging germination. He recommends mowing at the proper height for the grass species, keeping mower blades sharp and avoiding mowing when grass is wet.

Watering practices also play a significant role in lawn health. Frequent, shallow watering encourages shallow root systems and can increase weed pressure, McKernan said.

Instead, homeowners should water deeply and less often to promote stronger roots and improve drought tolerance. During spring, irrigation should only occur when necessary.

Other factors that may lead to an unhealthy lawn include: ·&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Improper fertilizing.&nbsp;Fertilizing too much or too little or at the wrong time may benefit weeds more than grass. Only fertilize during the recommended months, only apply what is needed, and conduct a soil test to better understand fertilizer needs.

·&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Compacted soil.&nbsp;Soil compaction is a hidden stress on the turfgrass root system. The grass is unable to compete effectively with weeds. Core aerate lawns at least once per year to reduce compaction.

·&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Excessive wear.&nbsp;Turf areas used for recreation, sports and pets are subject to wear and compaction. Core aerate to reduce compaction in these areas, and temporarily fence off areas when establishing new grass seed.

·&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Wrong kind of grass.&nbsp;The wrong variety for the location will gradually decline and be invaded by weeds. Always check the grass seed label before purchasing to evaluate the types of grass seeds included in the bag. Purchase only recommended types of turf, avoiding cheap fillers.

·&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Environmental stress.&nbsp;Weeds often take over a lawn after it has been weakened and thinned from weather-related stress. Water appropriately during times of drought and avoid overwatering in the spring and fall. Evaluate irrigation water quality and soil nutrient levels by testing.

·&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Thatch.&nbsp;Excessive thatch causes shallow-rooted grass, limits water infiltration and contributes to insect and disease problems. Regularly monitor thatch accumulation and remove excessive thatch when necessary.McKernan said a proactive approach focused on lawn health is more effective and sustainable than relying solely on herbicides.

“A dense, healthy lawn is the first line of defense against weeds,” he said.

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity employer and provider. Kansas State University, County Extension Councils, Extension Districts, and U.S. Department of Agriculture Cooperating.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1698681527025.jpeg" alt="written by: Alicia Boor - Cottonwood Extension District" />
 <figcaption>written by: Alicia Boor - Cottonwood Extension District</figcaption>
 </figure>A healthy lawn may be the best defense homeowners have against invasive weeds, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan, adding that proper maintenance can prevent many common weed problems before they begin.“Weeds invading a home lawn can feel like an ongoing battle,” McKernan said. “Instead of constantly applying chemical treatments, homeowners should focus on growing strong, vigorous turfgrass that naturally crowds out weeds.”McKernan said healthy grass competes with weeds for sunlight, water and nutrients, making it harder for unwanted plants to take hold. He noted that many weed problems stem from common lawn care mistakes that weaken turfgrass and create opportunities for weeds to spread.One of the most common problems is mowing grass too short. McKernan said scalping the lawn weakens turfgrass and allows more sunlight to reach weed seeds, encouraging germination. He recommends mowing at the proper height for the grass species, keeping mower blades sharp and avoiding mowing when grass is wet.Watering practices also play a significant role in lawn health. Frequent, shallow watering encourages shallow root systems and can increase weed pressure, McKernan said.Instead, homeowners should water deeply and less often to promote stronger roots and improve drought tolerance. During spring, irrigation should only occur when necessary.Other factors that may lead to an unhealthy lawn include: ·&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Improper fertilizing.&nbsp;Fertilizing too much or too little or at the wrong time may benefit weeds more than grass. Only fertilize during the recommended months, only apply what is needed, and conduct a soil test to better understand fertilizer needs.·&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Compacted soil.&nbsp;Soil compaction is a hidden stress on the turfgrass root system. The grass is unable to compete effectively with weeds. Core aerate lawns at least once per year to reduce compaction.·&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Excessive wear.&nbsp;Turf areas used for recreation, sports and pets are subject to wear and compaction. Core aerate to reduce compaction in these areas, and temporarily fence off areas when establishing new grass seed.·&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Wrong kind of grass.&nbsp;The wrong variety for the location will gradually decline and be invaded by weeds. Always check the grass seed label before purchasing to evaluate the types of grass seeds included in the bag. Purchase only recommended types of turf, avoiding cheap fillers.·&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Environmental stress.&nbsp;Weeds often take over a lawn after it has been weakened and thinned from weather-related stress. Water appropriately during times of drought and avoid overwatering in the spring and fall. Evaluate irrigation water quality and soil nutrient levels by testing.·&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Thatch.&nbsp;Excessive thatch causes shallow-rooted grass, limits water infiltration and contributes to insect and disease problems. Regularly monitor thatch accumulation and remove excessive thatch when necessary.McKernan said a proactive approach focused on lawn health is more effective and sustainable than relying solely on herbicides.“A dense, healthy lawn is the first line of defense against weeds,” he said.Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity employer and provider. Kansas State University, County Extension Councils, Extension Districts, and U.S. Department of Agriculture Cooperating.

BOOR: A healthy lawn is the best defense against invasive weeds

Stress is a normal part of life for people of all ages. Whether it comes from work deadlines, family responsibilities, school pressures, or unexpected challenges, everyone experiences moments of feeling overwhelmed. Whie we cannot always eliminate stress; we can develop healthy ways to respond to it. One helpful approach is creating a “Calm Toolbox”—A collection of activities and strategies that help us regulate our emotions, relax our bodies, and regain a sense of control.

A calm toolbox is not a physical box but rather a personalized set of tools that can be used when stress levels begin to rise. Different strategies work for different people, and having multiple options available allows individuals to find what works best for them.

One category of calming strategies involves movement. Physical activity helps release built up energy and reduces tension in the body. This typically works well for children! (Have you seen the updated guidelines on recess in school? I’ll save that for another article!) Simple activities such as taking a walk, dancing, stretching, riding a bike, or participating in a sport can help improve mood and lower stress levels. Even brief movement breaks throughout the day can make a difference.

Another important tool is learning how to relax the body. Deep breathing exercises, progressive muscle relaxation, mindfulness activities, body scans and even a short nap can help slow heart rate and calm the nervous system. The techniques encourage the body to move from a state of stress to a state of relaxation.

Creative activities can also be powerful stress relievers. Drawing, painting, crafting, baking cooking, building, or other hands-on projects provide a positive outlet for emotions while allowing the mind to focus on something enjoyable. Creative expression often helps people process feelings and develop a greater sense of accomplishment.

Many individuals find comfort in sensory experiences. Taking a warm bath, holding an ice cube, using a heating pad, applying a face mask, or trying scented products can help shift attention away from stress and back to the present moment. Somedays I don’t know what I’d do without a hot shower! These physical sensations can be especially helpful during periods of anxiety or emotional overwhelm.

Social connections are another valuable tool in any calm toolbox. Reaching out to a friend, spending time with a family member, talking with someone you rust, or sharing an activity with others can provide comfort and support. Human connections remind us that we do not have to face challenges alone.

Mental refocusing activities can also help redirect attention away from stress. Reading a book, listening to music or a podcast, completing a puzzle, journaling, coloring, or playing a board game can provide a healthy distraction while giving the brain an opportunity to rest.

The key to building an effective calm toolbox is recognizing that no single strategy works every time. Experimenting with different techniques can help individuals discover which tools are most effective for them. Teaching these options to children helps them learn about themselves and what helps them to calm. Repetition is key! By developing healthy coping skills and practicing them regularly, we can better manage life’s challenges, reduce stress, and support our overall mental and emotional well-being. For more information visit Center of Excellence on Social Media and Youth Mental Health

Monique Koerner is the Family and Community Wellness Agent with K-State Extension – Cottonwood District. You may reach her at: 785-628-9430 or moniquek@ksu.edu

K-State Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2022/11/1668522152076.jpeg" alt="Monique Koerner is the Family and Community Wellness Agent with K-State Research and Extension – Cottonwood District." />
 <figcaption>Monique Koerner is the Family and Community Wellness Agent with K-State Research and Extension – Cottonwood District.</figcaption>
 </figure>Stress is a normal part of life for people of all ages. Whether it comes from work deadlines, family responsibilities, school pressures, or unexpected challenges, everyone experiences moments of feeling overwhelmed. Whie we cannot always eliminate stress; we can develop healthy ways to respond to it. One helpful approach is creating a “Calm Toolbox”—A collection of activities and strategies that help us regulate our emotions, relax our bodies, and regain a sense of control.A calm toolbox is not a physical box but rather a personalized set of tools that can be used when stress levels begin to rise. Different strategies work for different people, and having multiple options available allows individuals to find what works best for them.One category of calming strategies involves movement. Physical activity helps release built up energy and reduces tension in the body. This typically works well for children! (Have you seen the updated guidelines on recess in school? I’ll save that for another article!) Simple activities such as taking a walk, dancing, stretching, riding a bike, or participating in a sport can help improve mood and lower stress levels. Even brief movement breaks throughout the day can make a difference.Another important tool is learning how to relax the body. Deep breathing exercises, progressive muscle relaxation, mindfulness activities, body scans and even a short nap can help slow heart rate and calm the nervous system. The techniques encourage the body to move from a state of stress to a state of relaxation.Creative activities can also be powerful stress relievers. Drawing, painting, crafting, baking cooking, building, or other hands-on projects provide a positive outlet for emotions while allowing the mind to focus on something enjoyable. Creative expression often helps people process feelings and develop a greater sense of accomplishment.Many individuals find comfort in sensory experiences. Taking a warm bath, holding an ice cube, using a heating pad, applying a face mask, or trying scented products can help shift attention away from stress and back to the present moment. Somedays I don’t know what I’d do without a hot shower! These physical sensations can be especially helpful during periods of anxiety or emotional overwhelm.Social connections are another valuable tool in any calm toolbox. Reaching out to a friend, spending time with a family member, talking with someone you rust, or sharing an activity with others can provide comfort and support. Human connections remind us that we do not have to face challenges alone.Mental refocusing activities can also help redirect attention away from stress. Reading a book, listening to music or a podcast, completing a puzzle, journaling, coloring, or playing a board game can provide a healthy distraction while giving the brain an opportunity to rest.The key to building an effective calm toolbox is recognizing that no single strategy works every time. Experimenting with different techniques can help individuals discover which tools are most effective for them. Teaching these options to children helps them learn about themselves and what helps them to calm. Repetition is key! By developing healthy coping skills and practicing them regularly, we can better manage life’s challenges, reduce stress, and support our overall mental and emotional well-being. For more information visit Center of Excellence on Social Media and Youth Mental HealthMonique Koerner is the Family and Community Wellness Agent with K-State Extension – Cottonwood District. You may reach her at: 785-628-9430 or moniquek@ksu.eduK-State Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

KOERNER: Building your calm toolbox - healthy ways to manage stress

Rabbits are a common invader of home gardens, especially when plants flower in spring. Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan said there are many common-sense ways to keep the hungry critters out.

“This time of year, rabbits gravitate to young vegetables and flowers,” McKernan said. “But there are some vegetables that are rarely bothered, including potatoes, tomatoes, corn, squash, cucumbers and some peppers.”

Matt McKernan said some methods for keeping rabbits away include:

Fencing Fencing is often the quickest and easiest method of control. McKernan recommended the fence be at least two feet tall with a fine mesh of one inch or less. Fencing support can be provided by a variety of products, including electric fence posts. However, fencing may not be a viable choice based on the desired appearance of the garden.

Floating Row Cover Floating row cover is a light woven material that can be placed over plants yet still allows light, water and air to come through.

“Though most often used to promote early growth by keeping plants warmer than normal, it can also help protect young plants from insects and wildlife,” McKernan said.

Repellants Although commonly suggested for rabbit control, repellants must be re-applied frequently. Some can also be poisonous and cannot be used on plants intended for human consumption, McKernan warned.

Trapping McKernan said live traps are usually recommended when the rabbit can be moved to a rural area several miles away from where they were initially caught.

“A number of baits can be used to entice the rabbit to enter the trap, including a tightly rolled cabbage leaf held together by a toothpick. However, rabbits often avoid baits if other attractive food is available.”

Sprinkler A motion-activated sprinkler can be attached to a garden hose, releasing a short burst of water upon motion. McKernan suggests picking a product that advertises it can protect at least 1000 square feet: “Such products are available from Contech, Orbit and Havahart,” he said.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1698681527025.jpeg" alt="written by: Alicia Boor - Cottonwood Extension District" />
 <figcaption>written by: Alicia Boor - Cottonwood Extension District</figcaption>
 </figure>Rabbits are a common invader of home gardens, especially when plants flower in spring. Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan said there are many common-sense ways to keep the hungry critters out.“This time of year, rabbits gravitate to young vegetables and flowers,” McKernan said. “But there are some vegetables that are rarely bothered, including potatoes, tomatoes, corn, squash, cucumbers and some peppers.”Matt McKernan said some methods for keeping rabbits away include:Fencing Fencing is often the quickest and easiest method of control. McKernan recommended the fence be at least two feet tall with a fine mesh of one inch or less. Fencing support can be provided by a variety of products, including electric fence posts. However, fencing may not be a viable choice based on the desired appearance of the garden.Floating Row Cover Floating row cover is a light woven material that can be placed over plants yet still allows light, water and air to come through.“Though most often used to promote early growth by keeping plants warmer than normal, it can also help protect young plants from insects and wildlife,” McKernan said.Repellants Although commonly suggested for rabbit control, repellants must be re-applied frequently. Some can also be poisonous and cannot be used on plants intended for human consumption, McKernan warned.Trapping McKernan said live traps are usually recommended when the rabbit can be moved to a rural area several miles away from where they were initially caught.“A number of baits can be used to entice the rabbit to enter the trap, including a tightly rolled cabbage leaf held together by a toothpick. However, rabbits often avoid baits if other attractive food is available.”Sprinkler A motion-activated sprinkler can be attached to a garden hose, releasing a short burst of water upon motion. McKernan suggests picking a product that advertises it can protect at least 1000 square feet: “Such products are available from Contech, Orbit and Havahart,” he said.Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity employer and provider. Kansas State University, County Extension Councils, Extension Districts, and U.S. Department of Agriculture Cooperating.

BOOR: Tips for keeping rabbits out of the garden

Well, it is that time of year again, at least weather-wise, to be on the lookout for chinch bugs.

Chinch bugs overwinter in Kansas, as adults, usually at or around the base of bunch grasses. But, in milder winters they have successfully overwintered in no-till fields that have relatively thick residue reports Jeff Whitworth, K-State Extension Entomologist.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/4/1681266655144.jpeg" alt="written by: Stacy Campbell - Cottonwood Extension District" />
 <figcaption>written by: Stacy Campbell - Cottonwood Extension District</figcaption>
 </figure>Well, it is that time of year again, at least weather-wise, to be on the lookout for chinch bugs.Chinch bugs overwinter in Kansas, as adults, usually at or around the base of bunch grasses. But, in milder winters they have successfully overwintered in no-till fields that have relatively thick residue reports Jeff Whitworth, K-State Extension Entomologist.When wheat breaks dormancy, these adults move from the overwintering site to wheat where they start feeding, mating, and depositing eggs. These adults do not feed as much as the nymphs, but occasionally, if conditions are relatively dry, this feeding may stress some of the wheat. As the eggs hatch and nymphs emerge, they too start sucking the juice from wheat plants until the plants start drying. As the wheat senesces and thus, plants lose their moisture, these nymphs must move to find more succulent plants. Thus, any corn, sorghum or feed adjacent to these infested wheat fields attract this "walking" generation says Whitworth.All corn and most sorghum seed are pretreated with an insecticide. These seed treatments work. But, remember the bugs must suck a little of the juice from the plant to get a dose of the insecticide, and if there are enough bugs removing enough of the plant's fluid this feeding may still result in death of the plant even though it kills the bugs. Most seed treatments protect the seed and seedling for about 30 days after planting.Thus, as the wheat starts senescing, it is a great time to assess or monitor chinch bugs. Identification - adults are about an 1/8-inch-long, black bodies with white wings folded over their backs, featuring a distinctive black "X" mark. Nymphs are bright red when they hatch, darkening to black with a noticeable white band across their midsection until wing buds develop.Just move into the wheat field and push the wheat aside in square foot sized areas and count the number of chinch bugs. If you do this in several areas of the field and the averageis 1 or more adults or 4 to 5 nymphs per square foot--then it would be prudent to delay planting, or if it is planted to corn which has already germinated, a barrier insecticide treatment/spray may be considered before the bugs move out of the wheat.Preventative options to consider - avoid planting sorghum or feed directly adjacent to thin, stressed wheat stands. You can plant a 50-foot strip of an early-maturing sorghum or feed trap crop between wheat and sorghum fields. If migrating bugs become numerous, you can treat this barrier strip with insecticides before they move into the primary crop.Weather drives insect development and we have had a relatively mild winter, so many insect populations seem to be a couple of weeks ahead of their average development time. During the last 3-4 years we had relatively large chinch bug populations going into fall and overwintering. This has led to relatively large populations of chinch bugs throughout the next growing seasons. This year, so far, seems to be setting up the same, with the potential of healthy populations of chinch bugs again this summer, says Whitworth.For more information about chinch bug management, please refer to the KSU 2026 Sorghum (or Corn) Insect Management Guides. Information provided by Jeff Whitworth, K-State Extension Entomologist.Stacy Campbell is a Crop Production Extension agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact him by e-mail at scampbel@ksu.edu or by calling 785-628-9430.